Sunday, November 13, 2011

Girimsa Temple on Hamwolsan Mountain

Ancient Silla temple decorated with fantastic colorful leaves of late autumn

To the north of Tohamsan Mountain, which is famous for its Seokgulam Cave, is found the 584 meter-high Hamwolsan Mountain. Except for the rocky peak area, the mountain is mostly composed of smooth slopes. If you stand on the summit of the mountain, you can view the East Sea at a glance from the wide open summit. As people can observe the moon rising from the East Sea from the summit of the mountain earlier than any other mountain in the area, the mountain was named Hamwolsan (含月山: mountain embracing the moon).

Hamwolsan Mountain embraces not only the rising moon but also the famous temple Girimsa. Girimsa on the southeastern slope of Hamwolsan Mountain is said to have been built in the sixth century by the great monk Gwangyudaesa, who came from India, and his disciples in the name of Limjeongsa (林井寺: spring in forest temple). Thereafter, the great monk Wonhyodaesa renovated the temple in 643 (the 12th year of the reign of Queen Seondeok) and changed the name to Girimsa (祇林寺: god of the earth and forest temple). The name of Girimsa Temple references the Giwonjeongsa (祈園精舍: praying garden temple) in India that was built while Buddha was living in India.

Thereafter, the temple was renovated many times and in 1862 (the 13th year of the reign of King Cheoljong) a great fire burned down the 113 blocks of the temple buildings. In the spring of the next year the monks of the temple received a donation from a high ranking governor, Song Uhwa, and other people and restored the temple in autumn. The temple was renovated in 1878 (the 15th year of the reign of King Gojong) and monk Hyehum renovated the temple in 1905 again. During the Japanese colonial days, the temple was such large temple as to be one of the 30 headquarter temples from September 1, 1911 and one of the 31 headquarter temples from November 20, 1924 that administered the temples in the Gyeongju area including Bulguksa Temple. But nowadays, the temple has been downgraded to simply a branch temple of Bulguksa Temple



The one-pillar gate Iljumun of Girimsa Temple was built recently.




Temple with various cultural properties including five Treasures

Currently, Girimsa Temple is composed of the main hall Daejeokgwangjeon in the middle, Yaksajeon Hall on the left, Uengjinjeon Hall on the right and Jinnamru Pavilion in front, positioned in a rectangular form. In the front yard stands a three-storied stone pagoda and a newly erected stone lantern holder. Nearby these buildings are Myeongbujeon Hall, Samseonggak Pavilion, Gwaneumjeon Hall, Sansingak Shrine, the head monk’s office, the temple office, a residential house, three gates of Sanmun, large hall Daebang and a shrine for the scholar Kim Si-seup

The main hall Daejeokgwanjeon of Girimsa Temple was nominated as Treasure No. 833 on January 8, 1985. This main hall is comprised of five blocks in front and three blocks on both sides with a multi-layered Dapogye Matbaejibung roof style, and was founded during the reign of Queen Seondeok and renovated many times afterward. The current main hall Daejeokgwangjeon is assumed to have been renovated around 1629 (the seventh year of the reign of King Injo).

In the middle of the main hall Daejeokgwangjeon is placed the Borijanabul statue with the Nojanabul statue on its left and a Buddha statue on its right. In particular, the Birojanabul statue has very polished features with the hair curled up like a shell and a rectangular face. These three statues reflect the overall features of Buddha statues in the early Joseon Dynasty and are called Sojobirojana-sambuljwasang (three sitting Buddha statues) of Girimsa Temple, and were nominated together as Treasure No. 958.

In addition, Girimsa Temple houses Geonchilbosal-jwasang Sitting Statue (Treasure 415), Samsinbul Statue (Treasure No. 958), Bokjangyumul Heritage (Treasure No. 958), Samcheungseoktap (Three Storied Stone Pagoda, Tangible Cultural Property No. 205 of Gyeongsangbuk-do Province), and Obaeknahansang (500 statues of Buddha’s disciples, Tangible Cultural Property No. 214 of Gyeongsangbuk-do Province).


The main hall Daejeokgwangjeon and three-storied stone pagoda of Girimsa Temple.




Golgulsa Temple, the only temple in a rock cave in Korea

As large buildings are placed here and there in a wide space, Girimsa Temple carries a refreshing atmosphere. The dense pine forest at the entrance to the temple is very impressive and when late autumn comes, colorful leaves form a fantastic tunnel, presenting gorgeous scenery. Autumn leaves begin to be colored red, yellow and brown from late October and reach their peak in the middle of November.

If you hike for about 30 minutes along the unpaved road and mountain trail in the valley near Girimsa Temple, you will encounter an attractive cascade. Most visitors to Girimsa Temple do not know about this secret cascade. The cascade is called Wonhyopokpo Cascade, and sometimes called Girimpokpo or Yongyeonpokpo. The falling water rushing down along the rocky cliff that is more than ten meters high looks grand and the scenery around the cascade is also very attractive.

At Andong-ri Village in Yangbuk-myeon about four kilometers to the south of Girimsa Temple is Golgulsa Temple, which is said to have been founded by the great Indian monk Gwanyudaesa and his disciples together with Girimsa Temple. By imitating the temples in rocky caves in India, the great monk Gwanyudaesa built the temple in a rocky cave, making it the only temple in a cave in Korea. By carving 12 caves in the limestone wall, a temple was built with temple halls and residential house. This artificial cave temple bears the nickname of Dunhuang Cave Temple in Korea.

Gulgolsa Temple is the headquarters of the Korean Zenmudo discipline and houses Treasure No. 581, Maaeyeoraejwasang Sitting Stone Buddha Statue. On the top of the limestone wall of Golgulsa Temple is placed this stone Buddha statue sitting toward the southeast engraved in relief with a height of four meters, with a one meter-high head and 1.4 meter-wide shoulders. Judging from the three dimensional face, flat body part and horizontal garment fold style, the stone Buddha statue seems to have been built at the end of the Unified Silla Kingdom. However, some people say the stone Buddha statue might have been carved in the Three Kingdom Period because of the rough garment style of the statue.



Yaksajeon Hall of Girimsa Temple is Cultural Material No. 252 of Gyeongsangbuk-do Province.




The colorful forest around Girimsa Temple reaches its peak in the middle of November.




Attractive autumn leaves along the way from Iljumun Gate to Girimsa Temple.




Splendid colorful leaves in the valley near Girimsa Temple.




Wonhyopokpo Cascade is sometimes called Girimpokpo or Yongyeonpokpo.




Daejeokgwangjeon is the main hall of Golgulsa Temple.







# Drive memo
Exit Gyeongbu Expressway at Gyeongju Interchange and drive along national road No. 4 toward Yangbuk – Gampo via Bomun Tourist Complex and at Andong Samgeori (three-way junction) turn to the left along national road No. 14 and you will reach the entrance to Golgulsa Temple and Girimsa Temple.







# Public transportation
At Gyeongju take a city bus headed for Eoil-ri Village Yangbuk-myeon and transfer to a city bus bound for the entrance to Girimsa Temple.







# Gourmet restaurants
Daeilsikdan Restaurant (☎054-744-1781) at the entrance to Girimsa Temple is well-known for its Tojongdak (Korean chicken cuisine) and Oriyori (duck cuisine). This restaurant serves Tojongdakbaeksuk (Korean chicken boiled with rice, ginseng, jujube and chestnut), Dakbokeumtang (spicy chicken stew), Otdak (chicken boiled with lacquer tree), Oribaeksuk (duck boiled with rice and other ingredients) and Oribulgogi (duck bulgogi simmered over fire). In particular, Dakbokeumtang is very popular at the restaurant. As the restaurant uses fat Korean chicken grown in open field and cages, the chicken dish is rich and abundant with spicy flavor and chewy meat, and the side dishes are also very clean and delicious. Sundubujjigae (bean curd stew with an egg) prepared with bean curd made from local soybean produced by nearby farm houses is also very popular. In addition, this restaurant serves diverse Korean dishes such as Deodeokgui-jeongsik (Deodeok roots grilled with spicy ingredients and typical Korean dishes with rice), Sanchaebibimbap (Bibimbap with wild vegetables), Megimaeuntang (spicy catfish stew) and Cheonggukjang (fast fermented soy bean paste stew).







# Accommodations
At Beomgok-ri Village near Girimsa Temple are Chodangminbak (☎054-773-2451), Hyangjeonnongwon (☎054-773-6773) and Well-being House Dolmok (☎054-741-7799). Girimsa Temple (☎054-744-2292) and Golgulsa Temple (☎054-775-1689, 744-1689) have a temple stay program.

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